“Viscerally thrilling cooking”
Marina O’Loughlin reviews Sessions Arts Club, Farringdon: “Everything about this restaurant promises pleasures”
“I don’t do concepts,” she says. “It’s just a beautiful, special space, with hopefully fantastic food. There’s a classic feeling here, and that will be replicated in the food. We just want to grow organically into what’s here.”
“It’s about doing what’s not expected”
“Head chef Florence Knight has imbued the menu with her distinct sense of delicate flavors, texture, and color while keeping a devout focus on seasonality of produce. Taking time between services, Knight talked to us about her love for obscure, hard-to-find vegetables, why lardo is underrated, and how her background in fashion is visible on all her plates.”
“Knight is in the process of opening a restaurant of her own, and to Knight, there is no herb that combines England and Italy more than bay leaves. “[The leaves] came from Italy to England, via the Romans,” she remarks. I’m reminded of one particular dish of Knight’s: “drowned tomatoes” drenched in olive oil and garlic, and cooked with a couple of bay leaves”.
“Success has come young for Knight. Does she ever want a proper break? “I don’t think that’s my personality. I will never think: ‘I’ve done enough!’”.
Florence Knight’s perfect picnic: Make the most of summer’s last Bank Holiday weekend.
“Mismatched florals, salvaged materials, antique finds – the London home of Polpetto’s head chef is a lesson in good taste”.
“As I settle in for a quick coffee at my table in the front window of the restaurant – perhaps the best table for people watching in the whole of London – I catch a smiling Florence Knight out of the corner of my eye”.
“Knight is a very good cook. She has a deftness of touch and skilled hand, an innate understanding of what flavours work together, a massive respect for her ingredients”.
Kinfolk ask Florence Knight about what kind of grub she enjoys at home, how she likes living there and what pantry items she can’t live without.
“This isn’t a game-changer, it’s just completely enjoyable, straightaway the restaurant I’d choose to go to above all others in London, says David Sexton”.
“Head chef at Polpo, about to publish her first book – at 26, Florence Knight is the next big thing. She owes it all, she says, to her late father.”